For Loris Diran, opening his own boutique has been a long process in the making. Despite delays and setbacks, the first ever Loris Diran store has finally arrived in New York, quite a notable feat considering the trying economic climate. The flagship store is located just off the fashionable Bowery with neighbors including the Bowery Hotel to the North and Patricia Field to the West.
With an impressive resume that includes time at Versace, Claude Montana and Chanel, the French-Armenian designer has been working under his own eponymous line since 2003 when he launched a collection of luxury knits for his first women’s wear label. Today the line includes both men’s and women’s ready to wear as well as bespoke tailoring.
Diran gave us a tour around the boutique before the evening of his party to celebrate the store’s opening. He was beaming as he walked us around the brightly lit, airy and minimalist space that instantly conveys a sense of quiet luxury and sophistication. “Memories of a big, clean lined house, overlooking Lake Como,” Diran said describing his childhood Italian villa as his inspiration for the store’s concept.
The Spring 2009 collection is currently stocked on the custom-made silver racks. “Deciding to create my first boutique in New York’s Bowery district has made me re-evaluate how I view elegance. I feel my collections should now have a sense of proportion and detail that is somewhat ‘left of center’. I want to take something that is classically demure and give it a touch of eclectism," Diran said. Indeed, the clothes displayed a timeless sophistication and elegance that still had an eye towards the modern man and woman.
The men’s selection featured sumptuous luxury fabrics like cashmere from the same mill as Canali. “You know, my textile guy asked me how much I was selling this jacket for,” Loris said smiling as he brushed a beautiful tan coat with contrast piping. “I told him $3,050 and he looked at me and says, ‘Canali is making a jacket just like that for $12,000.’” The anecdote is actually quite representative of the Loris Diran line—the clothes are undoubtedly expensive, but still within the reach of the urbane luxury shopper.
On the women’s side, there is a mix of both feminine and masculine elements. “Ellen and her wife could both wear everything,” Loris said when we came up to a tailored pin-stripe pantsuit. To contrast, there were silky blouses with floral prints and ruffle details as well as a maroon bubble skirt that could draw its inspiration back to 60’s British icon Twiggy.
When asked about why he chose the Bowery for such a collection when ostensibly it is the Upper East Side man or woman likely to drop the cash needed for a Loris Diran piece, Diran waxed nostalgic, saying, “As a New York City teenager, I spent an enormous amount of time down on Bowery. Rough as it was back then, it had a unique kind of energy. No matter where I went through the years, I always defined myself as a product of it [so] it seems fitting that the Bowery and I come back together again.”
Adrien Field
Photography by Moises De Pena.