IT Piece: Black snakeskin and fur jacket
Upon first walking into the Hernan Lander presentation my mind went to Margiela. Upon asking the designer if he was at all inspired by the great Martin I was told a prompt “no”—I don’t buy it.
Hernan’s clothes were meant to strike the balance between the hard and the soft, technology and nature (a theme apparently, as per Tia at Ports 1961) and I could see it in his choice of fabrics and his juxtaposition of tailored pieces, jersey draping and combinations of silk velvet, fur, and snake skin.
However—again, they were extremely reminiscent of Margiela, but missing the tailored perfection that makes Margiela, well Margiela. Hernan’s attempts at pointed shoulders, strap embellished hammer pants, and jackets in general were not exemplary. His pieces made of Jersey consisting of draping and mixed materials is where he truly shined.
A silver jersey draped dress with snake skin detailing made my heart stop, as did a super cool off the shoulder sweatshirt embellished with mirrors, and a fantastic silver snakeskin asymmetrical vest. Most impressive of all, and quite desirable was the It Piece: a to die for black snakeskin and fur jacket-breathtaking.
With some editing and a clearer definition of his voice Hernan will become quite impressive, he just has some edges to smooth.
-Diana Scime-Sayegh
Images courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week