Derek Lam' s fall 2008 collection was full of his signatures: impeccable tailoring and mature femininity.  According to Instyle.com, Lam' s inspiration was "controlled exuberance," a theme he internalized from the story of Isak Dinesen' s conflict with her aristocratic upbringing and her untamed spirit.

The  control is certainly evident in the collection with a subdued neutral palate, the heavy layering of fine fabrics (lace, wool tweed, fur, silk, velvet), laced Victorian style ankle boots, opera length gloves, and tall beehive up dos. 

Lam shows only a bit of the rebellious side with a very low cut velvet gown and wool corset.  And although the makeup was elegant, gold and rust eyeshadow provided a pop of color and attitude.

This collection wreaks of wealth and luxury and if separated, the pieces could translate well and lose the appearance of baroness costuming.