It was the spring of 1947. People around the world were struggling to regain a sense of normalcy after WWII. The last thing on women’s minds was their clothing. A little known designer (at the time) changed that with his line aptly called “Corelle,” named after the petals at the center of a flower. Christian Dior’s line presented a very specified look and his aim was to make women look like women again. Shoulders were soft and sloping, often bolstered with shoulder pads. Waists were impossibly tiny, evocative of the Gibson girl, and constructed with rigid corsets. Skirts were full and long, the designer going as far as to use padding around the hips to exaggerate the hour-glass shape. The result was a look one might recall when thinking of the oft-used expression ‘Old Hollywood Glamour.’ In fact it was Dior who created this glamour, clothing stunning screen sirens like Ava Gardner and Marlene Dietrich.
The collection came to be known as the “New Look” because it was dubbed so by then editor of Harper’s Bazaar, Carmel Snow. The moniker caught on then and has survived through the decades. It was named as such not because the look was new per se, but because it was a stunning change for women in that post-war era of asperity and asceticism. Women initially reacted with shock and reproof at the sheer magnitude of fabric used to engineer the dresses, but none could resist the romantic femininity Dior offered with his exquisitely crafted garments. The “New Look” was quickly adopted in Paris and soon spread all around the world, catapulting Dior into fashion’s hall of fame. Dior died in 1957, but his legacy is continued by eccentric and talented designer John Galliano. Dior is still considered one of the most prestigious fashion houses today, worn by well-heeled and discerning fashionistas worldwide. The “New Look” survives as well, through designers like Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera among others, whose designs are noted for their femininity and consciousness of the womanly shape. Burlesque dancer and rising fashion star, Dita Von Teese, is often spotted on and off the red carpet in ensembles resembling the “New Look.” Perhaps when (or should I say if) the war in Iraq ends, some designer, inspired by Dior’s innovation, will create a new look for the 21st century.