A major key to having younger looking skin is weekly exfoliation. But what with so many exfoliants on the market, how do you know what’s right for your skin? I offer you this exfoliation cheat sheet (aka How to tell your AHA from a hole in the ground).

To start off, there are 2 classes of exfoliants: Mechanical and Chemical. Mechanical is when there are scrubby particles (usually synthetic beads or ground nuts/pits in a liquid or gel base that, when rubbed on, physically break the bond between the old skin cells that need to go and the rest of your skin. Chemical exfoliants are compounds that dissolve the “glue” that holds the old skin cells on so that they can slough off on their own.

Mechanical exfoliants are great for the body. In MOST cases (not all) they can be entirely too harsh for delicate facial skin. They can cause microscopic abrasions that can allow bacteria and other nastiness in (causing zits). If you are going to use a mechanical exfoliant, get one with synthetic beads. These are at least perfectly round and less likely to cause damage. Avoid the nuts/pits – unless it’s a really high-end product, chances are they are roughly ground with extremely rough edges.

Moving on to chemical exfoliations, which tend to be confusing for many people.

The first, and most common, class of chemical exfoliants is known as Alpha Hydroxy Acids (or AHAs). The acids that fall into this class and some info about them are:

Glycolic Acid: Comes from sugar cane. Good for most skin types, except for really sensitive skin. It’s the most common AHA on the market.

Malic Acid: Comes from apples. Not often used alone. Rather, it usually is in an AHA blend of 3 or more acids.

Lactic Acid: Comes from milk.. It has the bond breaking goodness of the other AHAs but has the added benefit of being moisturizing. It’s great for sensitive skin.

Citric Acid: Comes from citrus fruits. Can be very irritating if not in low concentrations or in a blend with other acids.

Tartaric Acid: You will not see this unless it comes in a blend.

Beta Hydroxy Acids are another common exfoliant. The only BHA – salicylic acid.

But when to use what??? AHAs are water-soluble. That means they don’t really absorb into the skin (since one of the skin’s function is to keep water out), rather they do their work on a surface level. Salicylic Acid is lipid (oil) soluble. This means that it can get into the pore and clean out the sebum (oil) and dead skin cells inside.

If you have mostly clear skin, but are concerned with fine lines and sun damage, use the AHAs. If you have oily/acne-prone skin, then the BHA is the one for you.

Please note that in order to work best, these acids need to be in the correct concentration of 5-8 % and at a pH of 3-4. This usually is not stated on the bottle. If the AHA is listed as the 2nd or 3rd ingredient, it’s usually in the proper concentration.

Finally, there is a 3rd type of chemical exfoliant – the enzyme. Enzymes work to dissolve the top layer of dead cells (as opposed to AHAs which just eat up the bond that holds them on). Not all enzymes do the trick. They must be in a class known as Proteolytic Plant Enzymes. The ones normally used in skin care are Papaya (papain), Pineapple (Bromelain) and Pumpkin (cucurbita pepo). Enzymes are great for sensitive skin. IMPORTANT: Enzymes are what women and men of color should be using for exfoliation. Mechanical exfoliation can damage the skin causing dark spots. Acids can cause discoloration (lightening of pigment). Enzymes are safe and very gentle.

When using any exfoliant, it is imperative to keep up with the sunscreen/sunblock. Exfoliation can make you more sensitive to the sun and can cause some nasty burns. Apply a sunscreen with an SPF of 30 every 2 hours of sun exposure.

This season, don’t let your skin become dull and flaky! Show off the healthy skin that’s just one little layer away!