We know our Manolo's and Louboutin's but now it's time to learn Nicholas Kirkwood. With his sculptural forms and seductive heels and with shoes represented at shows for Belstaff, Doo Ri, Basso & Broke and 3.1 Philip Lim among others, Nicholas Kirkwood definitely has a place in the same league as our loved shoemasters. And as if that's not enough then there's the recent news that Nicholas Kirkwood will be head designer of accessories at Pollini. Cooperation with the major designers are not new to Nicholas Kirkwood. After having released his first collection in 2005, which was more art than wearable, he has been hot at Chloé, Gareth Pugh and Zac Posen.
Kirkwood's collection for autumn 2008 is full of what has become his signature: the slanted platform, vertiginous stiletto heels, innovative shapes and rare and unique materials in a distinctive mix. Or what do you say about, for example, lasercut leather, crinkled patent or rubberized suede? As for decorations, you will not find the traditional bows or diamonds at the shoes of Nicholas Kirkwood.
"To decorate for the sake of decorating is a really old-fashioned notion," said Kirkwood in an interview in Oyster Magazine.
"I'm more about form and function. Some of my heels look quite aggressive, but they are always feminine – not girly."
His focus is geometric shapes, almost architectural, which become part of the shoe. It is consistently strong, clean lines, but there is also a certain amount of mysticism in his creation. The 80's "power stilettos" are always frequent in his collections but entirely in his own style. And that is exactly what makes him a new shoe master - he follows his own head. He does not follow trends, but you can probably say that he creates them.
His shoes are not practical, not classic and probably not practical. They don't work with everything and they are definitely not cheap but they have everything necessary for instant infatuation and raises strong cravings. But all that works excellent for me.
Nicholas Kirkwood was born in 1980 and studied art at Central Saint Martin's and foot wear design at Cordwainers at London College of Fashion. His first collection was released in 2005.